Strobes can be a difficult topic to master for a seasoned photographer, let alone new photographers. You know you need more light, but which strobe do you get? Do you need just one strobe, or a full arsenal? What type of photography flash should you get? How much power do you need? What are modifiers, and which ones are relevant for you? Do you really need to spend all that money on an expensive strobe, or will the entry-level ones do the job? (I am going to use the terms Flash and Strobe interchangeably, so don’t hang too strongly to either one).

All of these questions and more can make it pretty overwhelming if you’ve never used Flash before. And if you are just starting out with studio photography, then there re probably a million other questions as well. So, in this guide, we’re going to try to answer some of them. We’ll take a look at the variety of different photography strobes and flashes on the market. Also, we’re going to try to help you figure out what light or lights you might want to get to start your neverending flash journey. Finally, we’ll show you how different types of light might be better suited to different genres of photography.

Why you need a studio strobe?

One of the big questions for newer photographers is, “Do I need a flash?”. If you are just starting with a studio, answering this isn’t always simple. While there are natural light studios with big windows, using sunlight alone can be pretty limiting. Both in the time of days that you have “good light”, but also in the type of photography you can practice.

At its simplest, flash simply adds light to a scene. On a deeper layer, you can use strobes to control not only the amount of light, but the shape of it (hard or soft), the color, and even the amount of movement you would have in your shot. That might not make much sense just yet. But the more you experiment with flash, the more you’ll figure out how to use it and where its use is advantageous.

Considerations for buying a new studio strobe

When I started using strobes, I was overwhelmed. There are just so many features, buzzwords, and acronyms that it can be quite a mental overdrive. Especially if you’re unclear about which features are important for the kind of photography you do. Let me touch on the top three most important topics on the top, share some best-in-class strobes, and then, I’ll share a list of features that may be more specific.

Power

Strobe power is measured in Watt-second, and the more, the better. I mean, more light is why you were looking for a strobe in the first place. Typically, more wattage means more versatility. Remember, it’s easier to dial down a powerful light than to wish for more watts. Plus, higher-output models adjusted to lower settings can be more efficient, stretching your battery further, and getting faster recycle time, while ensuring precise control over your exposure with fractional stop adjustments. For now, let’s just say that you can get almost anything between 100ws to 2,400ws, with the most popular strobes being in the 400-600 watt-second range.

Budget

Budget is the flip side of the coin from power. Top-tier strobes with high watt-second ratings, and fast recycle times, but they can be pretty heavy on the wallet. And the rise is not linear. A decent strobe at 300WS may cost less than half of a 600WS strobe, while also being lighter, smaller, and easier to handle. I would recommend not breaking your back over getting the highest output strobe, but the one that strikes a good balance between performance and budget.

Flash Triggers

The last factor that goes on the top of your list is flash triggers. Flashes are like camera systems. Just like Nikon cameras want Nikon lenses for friends, and Canon cameras want Canon lenses, a similar thing is happening in the strobe industry. There are a few main systems of radio control, and each system plays nice “inside the family” and does not play at all with other brands. All the strobes that I will share here have a solid system with multiple types and power ranges, so you will not be limited to which one you choose. That said, the main systems are:

• Godox X 2.4 Ghz
• Neewer Q 2.4 Ghz
• Profoto AirX Blutooth
• FJ Wireless 2.4 Ghz

For the most part, all four systems can also use TTL with most camera brands: Canon, Nikon, Sony, Fuji, Panasonic Lumix, and Olympus

Your guide to Flash features

Congrats, you made it to the end of our list. As more strobes are hitting the market every year, we will keep this list always updated, but if you want to understand some of our considerations, and what features you should look for, here is your full guide to flash features.

TTL metering and High-speed sync

Consider if you want your new strobe to come with Through The Lens (TTL) metering and High-Speed Sync (HSS) capabilities. TTL allows the flash to communicate directly with your camera, automatically adjusting the power for a perfectly exposed shot. Conversely, HSS lets you shoot at shutter speeds faster than the camera’s typical flash sync speed, helping you control the ambient light. 

Flash duration

Rapid shoots demand a fast flash duration. The flash duration dictates how long the burst of light from your strobe lasts, and for quick movements, you’d want this to be as short as possible. Conversely, if your subjects are relatively stationary, this may not be as vital a consideration

Modeling light

Modelling lights allow you to see the effect of the light and shadows before the actual strobe flash happens. It’s indispensable for finessing your setup and testing different effects quickly on the fly. Old strobes used to have an actual replaceable incandescent light bulb in the center of the flash tube, but today’s strobes usually have a COB LED with a fixed watt rating. You are looking for a bright LED, and hopefully dimmable as well.

Recycle time

Flash Recycle time is the time a strobe takes to recharge between flashes, and the number typically indicates the time between two full-power pops. If you’re into fast-paced photography, like fashion shoots or action sports, you’d want a strobe that recycles quickly. Choose a unit with a recycle time of two seconds or less

Mounts and ports

If you are getting a studio strobe, there is a good chance you will want to fit it with a modifier like a softbox, an octabox, or a snoot. Most strobes (and modifiers) use a mount called Bowen mount, named after the company that made it. Some bigger strobes (and some smaller strobes), will have a different, nonstandard, mount. If this is the case, make sure that you can either use a Bowens adapter, of feel comfortable using a proprietary mount.

Battery size

The battery size impacts the number of full power flashes a single full charge will get you. Obviously, larger batteries will have more capacity. Just remember that stronger strobes need more power per each burst of light, so a bigger battery on a bigger strobe could still produce fewer “pops” than a medium battery on a less powerful strobe.

Conclusion

Choosing the right studio strobe is a journey that marries technical specifications with creative aspirations. Whether you’re swayed by the rugged reliability of the Profoto Pro-11, the versatility of the Godox AD200Pro, or the compact power of the Godox AD100Pro, the perfect strobe is out there waiting to light up your photographic adventures. Remember, the best strobe is not just about the brightest light or the highest price tag; it’s about finding the tool that complements your workflow, enhances your creativity, and brings your visions to life. As technology continues to evolve, so too will the capabilities of studio strobes, promising even more exciting possibilities for photographers of all levels. So, keep shooting, keep exploring, and let your choice of strobe illuminate the path to your next masterpiece.